038: Letter of Recommendation
System of a Down
On the first day of the new year, I woke up to a tickle in my throat, which has devolved into a terrible cold, plaguing me thus far for the first ten days of 2025. I have a miserable immune system that quivers at the very hint of a breeze, which is no match for the in-my-bones cold that is winter in Toronto, where I was visiting my best friend and family. I have since made a solemn vow to never feel cold again, and as such, have begun reevaluating my winter-wear situation, which is not too terrible, but certainly has some gaps in need of filling.
For my first two years of university, I lived in Toronto and owned a flimsy dELiA*s black peacoat and a flimsier blue and black houndstooth coat from a random brand that dots Canadian shopping centers. My soon-to-be-best-friend and extended family I was living with at the time implored that I buy a down jacket, but I resisted because, 1) I had absolutely no extra coins to spend on a down jacket, and 2) I couldn’t fathom spending money on something so…regular. This was an era when the TNA puffer-leggings-and-Uggs combination reigned supreme amongst a large contingency of young women in Toronto, and as a fussy dresser with a creative imagination that needed much further broadening, a down jacket was something I simply could not entertain.
In 2017, nearly ten years after I first rejected the down puffer, I found a black puffer that related to my personal style and budget from Uniqlo U’s Fall 2017 collection (a similar style is on major sale), similar in style – though more conservative in design – to Norma Kamali’s legendary Sleeping Bag Coat. The coat has served me well through many winters, but as it enters its eighth year, I thought it was time to let it take a much deserved rest and see what else was out there for me. My outlook on the puffer as being strictly utilitarian and banal has much changed since I was eighteen; in my twenties it was about utility and being Very New York i.e. all black everything, but now I want something different. The winter months are already so dreary, vitamin D levels are low, the state of the world is currently a spinning top, and seasonal affective disorder prepares for its annual appearance, so the least we can do for ourselves is to have fun with our outerwear AND seal out any and all drafts. Two birds, one stone!
The first segment of my epic journey to find puffers that are both delightful and functional, fit into my wardrobe, and can be worn over or under wool coats I own, is window-shopping (or as I may justify to my husband: collecting data). Collecting data, or window-shopping, depending on who you’re talking to, means considering the price (not all of us have generational wealth!) and whether it complements the things I already own. I’ll look at pieces that may not even be in my size, because if the design is interesting enough that it stays with me, it can inform the direction I want to take.As no financial commitment needs to be made yet, it’s a time I get to be whimsical about my choices while amicably distancing myself from my comfort zone.
After the (browser) window-shopping is over comes the debrief. I gather my data and assess: does this style still resonate with me; is the price worth it; what am I still fantasizing about and what has fizzled out?
As I near the last stage of making my final decisions, I’ve compiled an exhaustive (exhausting?) list of puffers that really did something for me, and perhaps they could do something for you too:
The Dries Van Noten coats below are from Fall 2017, and though beautiful, worn on their own, and even with the aid of a heaviest sweater, they won’t suffice for the frigid temperatures in New York at the moment, but worn with a fun down liner jacket, and we’re in business! I’d personally let the Herno collar and lapels peep out over the caramel kaleidoscope Dries coat.
The Etro number would be delectable with a 1970’s wool skirt in either a smart brown checkered pattern or camel; the green brocade and Anna Sui floral under a chocolate brown wool coat.
Very Bode in spirit, they would look delightful with a pair of brown corduroy bloomer-style pants and a navy sweater with a ruffled collar. And a duffle coat, imagine!
The drama of the Sofie D’Hoore down reminds me of the late great André Leon Talley, who always looked so regal in his collection of coats and capes. I’m dreaming of the Ann coat worn with massive knee high-boots that would frighten the slushiest of slush.
Pure unbridled joy packed in a puffer. Princess Diana would approve, so long as you swear it with brown boots and a baseball cap that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
I think the real problem with Beigefluencers and the ascent of Mocha Mousse is in the mundanity of insisting on appearing rich, which is really extremely boring. The way to do neutrals successfully is through a little nutty design work. Think spirit rich instead!
The two best things about Isabel Marant is how well she reinterprets the 1980s and designs with the intent to be lived in.
I live in Salt Lake City and the only puffer I own is the zip out lining of a Patagonia knee length twill car coat to walk the dog - the warmest coat when it is still dark out and it is snowing!
It was actually a gift from my husband. Not sure I would have picked it out myself but now I can’t imagine not having it! I read a recommendation for it from Vanessa Friedman in the NYT after I already owned it.
I make my wool, cashmere and alpaca coats work for anything else.
To quote Billy Crystal “ it is better to look good than to feel good” ( Google the clip to hear the accent🙃!)
Love these puffers. Fun read