022: Lindiwe Suttle Müller-Westernhagen & her Alaïa archive
The writer and singer on her enviable collection of the late designer's pieces
I first came across Lindiwe Suttle Müller-Westernhagen and her phenomenal Alaïa archive following a generous introduction over a year ago after asking around about people of colour who own and collect pieces for their high fashion archives. The fashion industry continues to be a predominantly white space (surprise!), and talk of “archives”, “collectors”, and “vintage” in fashion media has often failed to be inclusive. I thought, surely that’s not the case, there’s no doubt that there are many people of colour who cherish and collect the works of designers with just as much passion and zeal. After all, One of a Kind Archive, London’s greatest archival vintage store owned by Jefferson Ihenacho, has been around for about thirty years. There is a tendency to forget that without people and communities of colour, without the culture, craftsmanship, materials, and labour, the fashion industry would cease to exist. Honoring them is crucial.
Lindiwe, who originally hails from Atlanta, wears many chic hats as a singer, screenwriter, and children’s book author who has just published her first book, NAYA. The multi-hyphenate began her career in fashion as a visual merchandiser for DKNY jeans, moving on to the role of a fashion buyer, and then film costumer, dressing the likes of Beyoncé. Lindiwe has also spent time in South Africa, where her mother, the esteemed South African talk show host Felicia Mabuza-Suttle, is originally from. While living in Capetown, Lindiwe met her now-husband, musician Marius Müller-Westernhagen, and the two relocated to Berlin, where Lindiwe resides today.
Taking a moment from her book tour, Lindiwe gave me a closer look into her enviable archive.
You have the most incredible Alaïa archive; how long have you been collecting for and what was the piece that began this journey?
I've been collecting since 2010. When I met my husband, he said, ‘Alaïa is perfect for you.’ Like many teens, I learned of Azzedine Alaïa from Clueless, but after meeting my husband, I dug deep into his work. The first piece I bought was Azzedine’s wool leggings. Azzedine made leggings like no other. Even the ones I have from the 80s, maybe some aren’t in the best condition, but the cutlines are like architecture. His leggings are something I wished Pieter Mulier would have every year, just simple black leggings.
What was it about Azzedine's Alaïa that captivated you?
The way it feels to have it on your body. It's almost inexplicable, the feeling. I can compare it to a comfortable body corset.
Some collectors seal away their pieces in a vault, but you really wear them and bring them to life. What made you want to take these special pieces, many of them rare, from runway to real life?
I have many pieces that I am waiting for the perfect event to wear to, but as I get older I realize life is short, so I am not so precious with saving them.
How do you source your pieces?
Vestiaire Collective, My Find Vintage, Sumo Curated, resee, and rarely eBay and 1stdibs because they are too expensive.
What is your absolute favourite Alaïa piece?
The Spring/Summer 1991 "Tati" collection* is fashion history. It was the first time a fashion designer collaborated with a high-street brand. I wanted to wear the collection for my music video Congratulations, and it took me a year to find all the pieces. The gloves and shoes were the hardest to find.
I love his knit jumpsuits and all his leather pieces, too. My pieces from the Fall/Winter 1990 collection with the Kufic script print are also very special.
* Note: of this collection, Azzedine said "What excited me was to attach my name, and the world of haute couture, with this brand that represented bargain clothing and bargain prices," Alaïa said at the time. "When I would fly home to Tunisia, I would see travelers at Paris' Orly airport with huge Tati bags, full to the brims. I wanted to make something qualitative for this clientele, who couldn't afford designer clothes."
Is there a particular Alaïa collection or fashion moment you cherish?
A photo of Naomi Campbell at a convenience store buying Playboy magazine in the Tati collection (shot by Ellen von Unwerth for Interview Magazine).
How many of the designer's works do you have?
I have over 300 pieces.
As someone so well-versed about Azzedine’s legacy, how do you feel about where the Alaïa brand is today?
Design-wise, I think Pieter Mulier has honored Azzedine’s legacy while elevating and moving the brand on. But it saddens me not to see the diversity and culture that is Azzedine's Alaïa.
Who are some other designers whose works you admire?
Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.
Do you have any tips or advice for those who are building their own archives?
Shop in moderation. I own too much. I hope my niece appreciates it.
Do you have any regrets about any pieces you didn't buy or no longer own?
My one regret though is selling a pair of red Tati heels that didn’t fit. I realize now they were a museum-worthy piece. My hope is to have an exhibition with my collection so people can enjoy and celebrate Azzedine’s work.
What was the process of writing a children's book like for you?
NAYA is an inspiring, heartwarming book about friendship and self-love. I had the idea for the book and mentioned it to a woman at an event; she had connections with my current publisher and told me to send the book, but I hadn’t even written it. I went home and worked for a month till I was satisfied, and it got published.
Complete the sentence: Alaïa is...me.
Until next time!
Love love love!
Beautiful collection!